Frederick News Post, Frederick, MD., Friday, February 11, 2000

At first I wasn't sure why I, a relative newcomer to Frederick, was assigned to report on a visit to a time-honored area institution such as the Red Horse Steak House. But once the meal was over, I realized it was good fortune on my part, and perhaps I could add a fresh view of a place that many Frederick County residents have known for years.

Driving on the Golden Mile, one can hardly miss the Red Horse, with two large red horses (one out front, one on the roof) and the big motor inn sign. A friend and I ventured to the restaurant on a recent Saturday night. I was advised by colleagues to make reservations, and was glad I did as I heard one potential guest told the wait was close to one hour. Such are the spoils of success.

The restaurant has a very dignified air: dark furnishings, wood and decorations and low lighting lend a sophisticated veneer to the restaurant. It did not feel stuffy though; it was a welcoming atmosphere. Customer dress ran the range of sweaters and slacks to more dressy evening wear.
To me, the restaurant had the feel of a place one would go to celebrate a birthday, anniversary, reunion, prom or other special occasion. Indeed, many schools and organizations have their reunions or gatherings at the Red Horse.

A hostess showed us to our table in a dining room that resembled an old hunting lodge, complete with exposed beams and a fire burning in the fireplace. The room had a very old-fashioned yet classy feeling. Candles were lighted on every table, and huge chandeliers hung overhead. The tables were precisely adorned with the correct silver and linens.
Our water glasses were filled promptly and a basket of crackers, breadsticks, cheese spread and butter was brought to the table.
Perusing the menu, I knew one of us must have a steak, but which kind? How big? Which cut? The possibilities were quite extensive .. and tempting.

A reasonable amount of time had passed and we had yet to see a waiter, so we casually mentioned this to the hostess and immediately the manager came over– and offered his apologies for his oversight in neglecting to assign a waiter to our table.

He was so gracious about it, we almost felt sorry for bringing it up. He gave us a complimentary round of drinks and told the waiter to take extra good care of us. Anyone can make a mistake, and it was nice to see how well the situation was handled.

My friend Lori, decided on the crabmeat stuffed mushrooms ($6.25) as appetizer, and the stuffed flounder for her main course ($18.25). I chose the scallops wrapped in bacon ($5.95) for starters, and the "Jeff recommends" 15-oz. New York strip ($17.50).

All dinner entrees come with a potato of choice, vegetable of the day and a salad. We were also served a loaf of bread; warm, soft and crusty on the outside, we declared it quite delicious.

The appetizers arrived in no time, and they were wonderful. The scallops were marinated in soy sauce then wrapped in bacon and broiled. They were tender and very flavorful and the bacon was crisp. Four scallops were in an order.

The mushrooms, three of them, were quite large and were filled with crab imperial (very little filler) and topped with a small amount of hollandaise sauce. We both noted that the size of the appetizers was just right. Too many places give such large appetizers that your appetite for the main meal gets spoiled.

When we finished those, our salads were brought to the table. These were simple salads that contained no cheese or croutons, for – which we were thankful. The dressing was on the side.

The waiter's delivery timing of each course was perfect, a trait for which I'm told the Red Horse is known. The steak, ordered medium well, was cooked exactly to specification and had very little pink. It was mouth-watering. It was very tender and tasty and large enough to provide a leftover lunch.

The flounder was broiled and stuffed with crabmeat. It was presented very nicely, with the top half of the flounder cut in half and the crabmeat centered within. The flounder was tender and flaky, very tasty and the crabmeat (imperial as in the appetizer) had very little filler and was very savory.

The accompanying green beans were cooked until tender yet still had a bit or snap to them, and the baked potatoes were steaming hot and served with a small cup of sour cream and chives.

Also on the menu are a wide selection of steak cuts, such as prime rib and filet mignon, pork tenderloin an seafood selections, including deep sea scallops, broiled salmon and frog legs. They also offer a selection of dinner salads. Most dinner entrees run in the $15-$20 range, except the double cuts, which run about $30.

A selection of flavored coffees available ranges from Irish whiskey to black raspberry.  We were very tempted to have dessert, but the generous meal had left us too full.

Before we left, we ventured downstairs to the new Red Horse Lounge, which has a dining section for smokers near the bar, as well as a smoking lounge with sofas, chairs and televisions. They also have a large selection of cigars, aperitifs, brandy, and cognac.

The Red Horse was a very pleasant dining experience and one I hope to repeat in the future. Gracious service, excellent food and a comfortable atmosphere combine to give the Red Horse its enviable reputation. So perhaps this "newcomer's opinion is exactly the same as that of the old timers, and why the Red Horse is such a highly-regarded Frederick institution.

Kristy O'Malley
Frederick News Post Staff Reporter

To make reservations or request additional information: telephone 301-663-3030, or simply e-mail us your question.